HistoricalThe further you go, the better it gets! That is certainly true when you come to the North Highlands and especially so of its rich architectural heritage. Uncover the ancient secrets of world-class archaeological and geological sites, or make the fascinating journey of discovery into tracing your own ancestry in the many old church-yards or by modern electronic means. Not all of the north has its roots steeped in the Gaelic language as can be seen in the place-names of villages and towns, many from the Norse with some native people still having Viking DNA in their bloodline. In this vast areas of Caithness, Sutherland and Ross-shire you have the remnants of a Pictish, Celtic and Nordic past so why not check out your own roots to see if you too have the blood of the north coursing through your veins. But long before the north was ravished by the Viking hordes, even before the land was settled by Pictish and Celtic tribes, evidence of existence can be found pre-dating the Egyptian pyramids. Neolithic chambered cairns are sited in many areas but none better than the Grey Cairns of Camster built in 3500BC. Just think, the caves at Inchnadamph in Assynt prove existence of Palæolithic man of the Old Stone Age period dating back to circa 10,000BC. Check out the Caithness Archaeological Trust or explore Sutherland’s historical heritage by joining a field trip during the summer. Visit Balnakeil House at Durness, once the summer residence of the Bishops of Caithness, more recently headquarters for the Chiefs of Mackay. Don’t miss the broch of Dun Mhaigh at the head of the Kyle of Tongue. Visit the old Victorian Spa town of Strathpeffer and seek out guided walks to the Knockfarril Hillfort to see where the ancients created a history that enthrals. Moving forward through time you find the clan system, much of which is still in existence today as Chieftains gather their families from across the world to meet in the country that gave birth to the names they are proud to pass on to new generations, never forgetting their heartland in northern Scotland: the Mackays and Sutherlands predominant in the county of Sutherland, the Sinclairs and Gunns of Caithness, the Mackenzies, Munros, and Macleods of Ross-shire and many minor clans giving a sense of identity to visitors as they mingle in Highland communities amongst descendants who will, on occasion, don the tartan of their forebears. No finer sight can be seen at a Highland wedding than when the groom takes his bride to sit with a sea of suitably kilted attendants, all wearing the tartans of their clans, so posterity can bear witness to this ancient right to wear the cloth. There are ample photographic opportunities in the spectacular northern light to capture much of the historic past in the castles, forts, ancient monuments and old Caledonian Pines dotted throughout the northern area. It would be wrong to imply that only the ancient past is remembered in the history of an area that saw great change after the clearance in the 19th Century of families from fertile inland pastures desired by the landed gentry to nurture sheep – a more profitable commodity than people. From migrations to the coastal fringes of frugal land tenants had to turn into small working crofts, supplementing the new art of fishing, to the great emigrations to the Americas, Australia and New Zealand, a new way of life came about. The youth left the glens and sea-shores to find work in the towns of Britain, some to seek further education, many never returning until their working days were over and the yen to get back to the croft – whether from southern England or southern America – saw a growing settlement of an older generation. At last the tide has turned and the young stay, or return to work in their home townships bringing a vitality that ensures your journey to this historic lands will go down in the realms of your own memory, as unforgettable. www.ambaile.org.uk/en/index.jsp © Joan Campbell
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