Poolewe

and Inverewe Gardens

When you venture still further north on the main road you cross the moor and go down into Poolewe (the seapool by the yew trees) which is a beautiful village based on the mouth of the River Ewe. The river itself is famous for salmon and flows westwards from Loch Maree before emerging at the head of Loch Ewe. Having originated in a freshwater loch, the river becomes part of a sheltered sea loch. Loch Ewe has the Isle of Ewe in the middle of it so it has all the charm and mystery associated with this area but visitors can enjoy extensive facilities as well as natural phenomena. Alongside hotels and guesthouses there is provision for those with tents and caravans and a swimming pool of which locals are justly proud.

Just outside the village is Inverewe Gardens which were established in the 1860’s by Osgood Mackenzie. This warm and humid west coast area is helped by the Gulf Stream, and the gardens are home to many hundreds of exotic species of plants and trees from all around the World.

North of Loch Ewe is the pretty village of Aultbea whose deep anchorage around Isle Ewe was once a naval base. Continuing north past Laide and the beautiful Gruinard Beach one reaches Little Loch Broom sea loch. Dundonnel sits on its shore with the Dundonnel forest. Everything is overlooked by imposing mountains such as An Teallach which present a challenge to the fit and adventurous whilst offering others a focus for contemplation or flights of the imagination.

The area holds a number of historic sites, from Sands River Trail at Big Sand Gairloch to a Pictish Stone in neighbouring Poolewe cemetery. There is evidence of Iron works on the side of the river Ewe and low tide at Loch Tollaidh reveals a ring of stones which may be the site of an ancient crannog. (A crannog was an enclosure built on stilts which were built over water. Its gangway entrance could be removed in times of attack.)

Although the wolves and bears have long vanished from this part of the world an atmosphere with something pertaining to ancient times remains. It may emanate from the many archaeological sites which scatter the land. It is certainly enhanced by a quality of light unique to the North Highlands. Sunsets provide a dramatic end to long summer days and the clouds form their own collage. Stories of our ancestors have survived through legends, repeated down generations and the place names themselves reflect the thoughts of Gaels and Vikings from long ago. It is a place to connect with the past and enjoy the present. Like the rest of the North Highlands it is a place with which you can forge an ongoing connection and come back to find new enjoyments over the course of a lifetime.

One is able to sense the hardships of the past in these sparsely populated areas which were once homes to thriving communities before a large proportion of the population left for the New World. You will find encouraging signs that the glens are being repopulated by innovative people who are able to make lives for themselves away from major towns and cities. Many of them work at providing world class services for visitors.

Loch Maree.

Give to me a rifle and set me on the trail
High hills before me, the early sunshine pale
Rising o`er the maiden and reflecting on Firemore
High on the hillside the royal rivals roar.

Show me arean` eilean, below me Loch Maree,
Leave me to my solitude and let me wander free
To climb the rocky mountains and search the glen below
For a fine ten pointer or a royal `o`.

Take me where the falcon and the wild eagle soar
One mile north from the bothy at Carnmore.
On lofty Beinn a Chaisgein I will stalk the royal stag
And thrill to the call of the wild grey lag.

Over heather moorland a wandering I will go
Slioch in the distance beneath a vale of snow
Forever standing guard over bonny Loch Maree
Home of the wild deer so beautiful and free.

Take me where I faintly see the distant Isle of Lewis
Show me all this world and there`s one place I would choose
To represent the beauty of my homeland fair
The Loch Maree islands from the heights of Ardlair.

When the light is fading and the day is wearing through
You`ll find me heading west to the village of Poolewe
Farewell to bonny Kernsary my wandering footsteps guide
Through the pale woods of Inveran by the riverside.