Durness

The Most Westerly Village on the North Coast

Set in the heart of Scotland’s only European Geopark, Durness is fringed with sparkling beaches, bleached by sea and sun to soft silver, accessible despite stretches lying below high cliffs, clean and inviting and so often empty of footprints.

This lively village with its much-used community centre is proud of its association with the late John Lennon of Beatles fame, who shared his boyhood holidays with cousins in Sangomore, Durness. There are still people who remember playing with John during those halcyon days before fame overtook him. In 2002 the Durness Gardeners landscaped the area around the village hall under the watchful eye of the TV programme Beechgrove Garden, then dedicated part of the garden as a Memorial to John Lennon.

The ever-popular Highland Games, held on the last Friday in July, attracts large crowds and athletes from far and wide.

The Old Water Tap that served the entire village before mains water was piped to the area can still be found, in working condition, a reminder of days when the travellers who were always attracted to this area had to rely on their hosts supply of water carted from this tap and various wells of sweet drinking water scattered throughout the communities.

Balnakeil lies to the northwest with its old church and graveyard, the original church built in 722 AD by St Maelrubha, the yard has many interesting grave stones, including that of Rob Donn, born a Mackay, his fame as a poet won him the title of the Robbie Burns of the Highlands.

Golfing enthusiasts are intrigued with the local 9-hole course, set on cliff tops, playing a challenging round with views to take your eye off the ball and give plenty to talk about in what is known as Britain’s most northerly golf club. Out to the east of Durness is the rocky and picturesque point known as Faraid Head, yet another route for walking in an area that will keep you interested for as long as you can give time to staying in the varied accommodations on offer.

Balnakeil House, the original parts built by the Bishop of Caithness in the 13th century, and added to in 1744, later became the seat of Lord Reay, the Chief of the Clan Mackay. Balnakeil Craft Village grew in 1964 from the old site of an early warning station in case of nuclear attack on Britain.

Flying around the sea cliffs you will find puffins, tern, razorbills, fulmars and kittiwakes but drag yourself away and take the boat to the most north westerly point on Scotland’s mainland, Cape Wrath headland, easily accessible in season by ferry and mini bus service which takes you to the remote Cape Wrath Lighthouse built by Robert Stevenson in 1827.

To the east side of Durness is Smoo Cave, from the Norse word Smjugg meaning creek or cleft, it is the largest limestone cave in Britain, 200 feet long, 130 feet wide and 50 feet high at the entrance, and is situated at the head of the narrow inlet Geodha Smoo. The cave is rich in archaeological history, and abundant in wildlife. Visited by Sir Walter Scott in 1814, he found it breathtaking.

Further east along the coast there is the scattered village of Laid, on the shores of Loch Eriboll, around which the road continues its scenic route through the small and attractive hamlet of Hope where you have the choice of heading for Tongue on the coast or taking the road into the interior of Sutherland under the shadow of Ben Hope.